PHAROS
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Mountains, sea
and desert.

Three houses that could hardly be more different: a stone hotel on a gorge high in Oman's Al Hajar range, Dubai's sail-shaped tower on its own island, and a candlelit lodge in the Jordanian desert run with its Bedouin neighbors. Read on for the right months, the flights and drives that connect them, what to wear and order, and how to make room for Petra.

Illustration: Terraced stone at the lip of an Omani gorge
Terraced stone at the lip of an Omani gorge · Original illustration
Countries
Oman, United Arab Emirates, Jordan
Currencies
Omani rial · UAE dirham · Jordanian dinar
Languages
Arabic, with English spoken in hotels and most tourist areas
Time zones
Jordan UTC+3 · Oman and the UAE UTC+4 · no daylight saving
Power
230V · plug G in Oman and the UAE; several types in Jordan, so bring a universal adapter
Best months
October to April; in summer only the Omani mountains stay comfortable
Between hotels
Short flights: Dubai to Muscat about an hour, Dubai to Amman about three
Weekend
Saturday and Sunday in the UAE · Friday and Saturday in Oman and Jordan
Overview

Three faces of Arabia

From Spain, the Gulf and the Levant feel far away, but a direct flight puts them a long afternoon from Madrid or Barcelona, and the winter sun is reliable. Our three hotels here each show a different landscape and a different idea of comfort.

Alila Jabal Akhdar sits at about 2,000 meters in Oman's Al Hajar Mountains, built of local stone on the lip of a canyon. Up here the air is cool, villagers grow pomegranates and damask roses on terraces, and the nights are full of stars.

Burj Al Arab Jumeirah is the opposite: a tower shaped like a sail, opened in 1999 on an artificial island off Dubai's beach, where every room is a duplex suite and the scale is deliberately dazzling.

Feynan Ecolodge, in the Wadi Feynan on the edge of Jordan's Dana Biosphere Reserve, runs on solar power and candlelight and serves vegetarian food. Its guides, drivers and hosts come from the local Bedouin community, and Petra is close enough for a day.

Good for: winter-sun escapes, walkers, families, history lovers and anyone curious about hospitality in the Arab world.

Seasons

When to go

The cool season (October to April)

The best time for all three. Dubai's beaches are warm, the desert is pleasant by day, and Jordan is ideal for hiking in spring and autumn. In December to February, nights get cold in the mountains of Oman and in Jordan's highlands, where snow is not unheard of. Bring a proper jacket.

Summer (May to September)

Dubai and the Jordan Valley can exceed 40°C, with Gulf humidity making it feel hotter. Jabal Akhdar is the exception: it stays many degrees cooler than the coast, which is why Omani families head up the mountain in summer. Rose harvest on the plateau comes in spring, usually around April.

Ramadan

The holy month moves about eleven days earlier each year. Hotels keep running normally, but eat, drink and smoke discreetly in public during daylight hours. Evenings are lively, and sharing an iftar to break the fast can be a highlight of the trip.

Logistics

Getting around

Flying is the simplest way to link the three countries. In Oman, rent a car: the road from Muscat to the Jabal Akhdar plateau is steep, and a police checkpoint at the foot of the climb turns back anything that is not a four-wheel drive. In Jordan, hire a driver or rent a car and take the King's Highway south, one of the region's most beautiful roads.

The last stretch to Feynan is on desert tracks, so you leave your vehicle at the reception point and continue in the lodge's own 4x4.

LegHowTimeWorth knowing
Dubai to MuscatFlight≈ 1h 10mDriving takes about five hours with a border stop
Muscat to Jabal Akhdar4x4≈ 2h 30mPolice allow only four-wheel drives up the mountain
Dubai to AmmanFlight≈ 3h 15mFrequent daily departures
Amman to FeynanCar≈ 3hThen a short ride in the lodge 4x4
Feynan to PetraCar≈ 1h 30m–2hOr arrive on foot over several days on the Dana–Petra trail
Petra to Wadi RumCar≈ 1h 45mDesert camps and jeep tours
Itinerary

A ten-night route

  1. 1

    Three nights · Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, Dubai

    Arrive at Dubai International

    Beach and pool days, an abra across the Creek to the old souks, and the museums of Al Fahidi.

  2. 2

    Three nights · Alila Jabal Akhdar, Oman

    Fly to Muscat · about 1h 10m, then 2h 30m by 4x4

    Walks along the terraced village trail, Nizwa's fort and Friday livestock market, and starry, silent nights.

  3. 3

    Four nights · Feynan Ecolodge, Jordan

    Fly to Amman via Dubai or Doha, then about 3h by road

    Hikes in the wadis, tea with a Bedouin family, candlelit dinners and a long day at Petra.

Etiquette

Customs and etiquette

  • Dress: outside the hotel, keep shoulders and knees covered, especially in souks, villages and mosques. Swimwear belongs at the pool and the beach.
  • Coffee and dates: they are offered as a welcome, and it is polite to accept. With Arabic coffee, a small shake of the cup tells your host you have had enough.
  • Right hand: use it for eating and for passing things.
  • Photos: ask first before photographing people, and never photograph women without permission.
  • Public behavior: keep affection discreet; holding hands is usually as far as it goes.
  • Alcohol: available in licensed hotels and restaurants, not in public spaces.
  • Tipping: around 10 percent in restaurants where service isn't included, and small notes for drivers and guides.
Table

What to eat

Oman

Shuwa

Spiced lamb wrapped in palm leaves and cooked for a day or two in an underground oven; a holiday feast.

Oman

Omani halwa

A glossy, chewy sweet flavored with rosewater, saffron and cardamom, served with coffee.

UAE

Machboos

Spiced rice cooked with meat or fish and dried lime.

UAE

Luqaimat

Crisp little fried dough balls drizzled with date syrup.

Jordan

Mansaf

Lamb cooked in a sauce of jameed, a dried fermented yogurt, served over rice and flatbread.

Jordan

Maqluba

A pot of rice, vegetables and chicken turned out upside down at the table.

Region

Mezze

Hummus, moutabal, tabbouleh, olives and warm bread for the whole table.

Beyond the hotels

Places worth adding

Jordan · 1h 30m to 2h by road from Feynan

Petra

The Nabataean city carved into rose-colored rock; walk the Siq to the Treasury and climb to the Monastery.

Jordan · above Feynan

Dana village

A stone village on the reserve's rim; the trail down the Wadi Dana to Feynan is a classic day hike.

Jordan

Wadi Rum

Red sand and towering cliffs; spend a night at a desert camp.

Jordan · an hour or so from Amman

Dead Sea

Lie back in water so salty you cannot sink, at the lowest point on land.

Oman · about 1h from Jabal Akhdar

Nizwa

A great round fort, a busy souk and the Friday morning cattle market.

Oman · about 2h from the mountain

Muscat

Oman's low-rise capital, with its great mosque, an opera house and the Mutrah corniche and souq.

Oman · east of the mountains

Wahiba Sands

Orange dunes that roll on for kilometers, with camps for a night in the sand, a few hours from the mountains.

UAE · 90 minutes by road from Dubai

Abu Dhabi

Its Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, all white marble and 82 domes, then the Louvre Abu Dhabi beneath its latticed dome.

The Hotels

Three houses, three countries

Pick a tab for each house's full file: the rooms, a three-day outline, where to eat, what to do, how to arrive, the weather month by month and the small practical things.

Side by side

The Middle East hotels side by side

Questions

Middle East: frequently asked

Is it safe to travel here?

Oman, the UAE and Jordan receive many visitors and are well organized for tourism. The wider region can change quickly, so read your government's current travel advice before booking and again before leaving.

What should I pack?

Light, loose clothes that cover shoulders and knees, a scarf for mosque visits, sturdy shoes for Jordan, and a warm layer for the mountains and desert evenings.

Do I need a visa?

It depends on your passport. Many nationalities get a visa on arrival or apply online. In Jordan, the Jordan Pass bundles the tourist visa with entry to Petra and other sites, if you stay long enough to qualify.

Is Ramadan a bad time to visit?

No. Hotels operate normally and evenings are festive. Some sights and restaurants keep shorter hours, and you should avoid eating or drinking in public during the day.

Do I need a four-wheel drive in Oman?

Only for the mountain road to the Jabal Akhdar plateau; a checkpoint at the foot of the ascent enforces it. Elsewhere, a regular car is fine.

Is Feynan suitable for children?

Yes, for children who enjoy being outdoors. Evenings are lit by candles and the days are spent hiking, stargazing and visiting Bedouin neighbors, which many young guests treat as an adventure.

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