Ice, rock
and cloud forest.
Six hotels spread from Newfoundland to the bottom of Chile: an island inn facing the North Atlantic, a desert hideout among Utah's mesas, cabins on a ridge over the Pacific, a lakeside lodge in Torres del Paine, a pink hotel inside Iguaçu National Park and stone cottages beneath Machu Picchu. Here is how we would time them, reach them from Spain and string a few together.

- Countries
- Canada, the United States, Chile, Brazil and Peru
- Money
- US and Canadian dollars; Peruvian sol, Brazilian real, Chilean peso
- Languages
- English, Spanish and Portuguese; Quechua is widely spoken around Cusco
- Clocks
- From UTC−8 on the California coast to UTC−3 in Brazil and Chilean Patagonia; Newfoundland runs on UTC−3:30
- Plugs
- 120V Types A/B in Canada and the US; 220V in Chile and Peru; 127V or 220V in Brazil depending on the city
- When
- The north from June to October; Patagonia from November to March; Machu Picchu from May to September
- From Madrid
- Nonstop to Lima, Santiago, São Paulo, Buenos Aires and several North American hubs
- Paperwork
- Canada's eTA and the US ESTA for many Europeans; Chile, Brazil and Peru are visa-free for Spanish tourists
One hemisphere, two sets of seasons
We chose these six for what lies outside the window. None of them is a city hotel; each is a way into a particular piece of land, and most of what you will remember happens outdoors.
Up north, Fogo Island Inn stands on stilts on a rocky shore off Newfoundland and puts its profits back into the island. Amangiri hides in a sandstone valley near the Utah–Arizona line. Post Ranch Inn spreads its tree houses and turf-roofed rooms along a ridge high above Big Sur, and admits adults only.
Further south the mood changes. Explora sits on the shore of Lake Pehoé, looking across at the Paine massif. Belmond Hotel das Cataratas is the one hotel inside the Brazilian side of Iguaçu National Park, a short walk from the falls. Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo is a cluster of stone cottages in cloud-forest gardens at the foot of the Inca citadel.
Do not try to see them all at once. Treat the northern three and the southern three as separate journeys, and remember that July in Utah is midwinter in Patagonia.
Best for: walkers, people who travel with a camera, readers who care about how a building meets its landscape, and anyone happy to trade nightlife for a very large sky.
Timing each place
Newfoundland
- May to early July: icebergs calved off Greenland ride the Labrador Current past the island. Some years bring hundreds, others very few.
- July and August: humpbacks and minke whales feed close to shore and the coastal paths dry out. This is the busiest stretch, so book early.
- September and October: wild berries ripen on the barrens and storms roll in off the ocean.
- Winter: sea ice, snowshoes and very few other guests. Ferries still run, but weather decides the timetable.
Utah and Big Sur
- Utah, spring and fall: the sweet spot, with mild afternoons for hiking and cold, clear nights for stars.
- Utah, summer: afternoon heat regularly tops 35°C, and the late-summer monsoon can send flash floods through slot canyons without warning.
- Big Sur: September and October are usually the sunniest months; early summer often brings morning fog that burns off by lunch. Winter storms can close stretches of Highway 1.
South America
- Torres del Paine: the austral summer, November to March, gives long days and open trails. Wind is a constant companion, strongest in midsummer.
- Iguaçu: worth a visit in any month. After heavy rain the water turns brown and thunders; in a dry spell some curtains thin out. Midsummer (December to February) is hot and humid.
- Machu Picchu: May to September is the dry season, with the best odds of a clear view at dawn. January and February are the wettest, and the Inca Trail closes in February for upkeep.
Getting there, and from Spain
From Madrid: the southern hotels are easier than they look. There are nonstop flights from Madrid to Lima, Santiago, São Paulo and Buenos Aires, typically twelve to fourteen hours, and from those cities a domestic hop does the rest. For the north, Madrid has direct service to several US and Canadian gateways, including Toronto and New York; the West Coast and Utah usually need one connection.
Fogo Island: fly into Gander, drive about an hour to Farewell and take the car ferry, roughly 45 minutes. Weather can cancel sailings, so do not plan a tight connection on the way out.
Utah and California: you will want a car. Amangiri is about 25 minutes from the small airport at Page; Las Vegas and Phoenix are the bigger gateways. For Post Ranch Inn, Monterey is the nearest airport. Check Caltrans before driving Highway 1, as landslides close sections from time to time.
Patagonia, Iguaçu and Machu Picchu: Explora collects guests from Punta Arenas or Puerto Natales. Das Cataratas is a 15-minute drive from Foz do Iguaçu airport. For Machu Picchu, fly to Cusco, then take the train down the valley to Aguas Calientes; the hotel is next to the station.
| Leg | How | Time | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Madrid to Lima | Nonstop flight | ≈ 12h | Several airlines; flights home run overnight |
| Lima to Cusco | Flight | ≈ 1h 20m | Cusco sits at about 3,400 m |
| Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes | Train | ≈ 1h 30m | From Cusco itself, about 3h 30m |
| Santiago to Punta Arenas | Flight | ≈ 3h 30m | Summer flights also go to Puerto Natales |
| Punta Arenas to Explora | Road transfer | ≈ 5h | From Puerto Natales, about 2h |
| São Paulo to Foz do Iguaçu | Flight | ≈ 1h 45m | Hotel about 15 minutes from the airport |
| Gander to Fogo Island | Car and ferry | ≈ 2h | Ferry from Farewell; weather permitting |
| Monterey to Big Sur | Car | ≈ 1h | Highway 1 south through Carmel |
A two-week loop through South America
- 1
Sacred Valley · 2 nights
Fly Madrid to Lima, then on to Cusco and drive down to the valleySleep lower than Cusco for the first nights to ease into the altitude. Pisac market, the salt pans of Maras and the circular terraces of Moray.
- 2
Machu Picchu · 3 nights at Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo
Train from Ollantaytambo · about 1h 30mOne early visit to the citadel, a second ticket for Huayna Picchu or the Sun Gate, and a morning with a birding guide in the hotel grounds.
- 3
Torres del Paine · 4 nights at Explora Patagonia
Fly Cusco to Santiago via Lima, then south to Punta ArenasFull-day hikes toward the base of the towers, a boat to Grey Glacier and long evenings by the window when the wind is up.
- 4
Iguaçu · 3 nights at Belmond Hotel das Cataratas
Fly to São Paulo, then on to Foz do IguaçuThe Brazilian walkways at opening time and again after the day visitors leave; a day across the border at the Devil's Throat.
- 5
Home
Fly Foz do Iguaçu to São Paulo, then nonstop to MadridA quiet last morning on the trails before the flight.
Prefer the north? Gander, Fogo Island, then on to Las Vegas for Zion and Amangiri makes an equally good fortnight; add Big Sur only if you have three more nights.
Local ways worth knowing
- Tips in the US and Canada: plan on about 18 to 20% at restaurants in the US and 15 to 18% in Canada. Prices are shown before tax, which is added at the till.
- Tips further south: in Chile and Peru, around 10% is normal at restaurants; in Chile the bill often asks if you want to add it. In Brazil a 10% service charge is usually printed on the bill already.
- Navajo land: Antelope Canyon and Monument Valley are on the Navajo Nation, and you enter the slot canyons only with a Navajo-licensed guide. Ask before you photograph anyone.
- Machu Picchu rules: entry is by timed ticket and set circuit, visitors go in with a licensed guide, and drones, walking poles without rubber tips and large bags are restricted.
- Language: Brazilians speak Portuguese, not Spanish. Spanish speakers will be understood with patience, but a 'bom dia' and 'obrigado/obrigada' go a long way.
- Newfoundland: conversations start easily and run long. If someone offers to 'screech you in' with rum and a cod, it is all in fun and you can say no.
- On the trail: pack out what you pack in, keep to marked paths in fragile desert crust and Patagonian steppe, and never light a fire in Torres del Paine, where wildfires have done lasting damage.
What we like to eat
Toutons
Rounds of bread dough fried in a pan and eaten hot with molasses or butter at breakfast.
Cod, every way
Pan-fried cheeks and tongues, salt-fish cakes and fish and brewis, the dish of soaked hardtack and salt cod.
Bakeapples
The local name for cloudberries, picked on the barrens in late summer and turned into jam.
Frybread
Puffy fried dough with a complicated history, eaten plain with honey or loaded with beans and chile.
Green chile
Roasted New Mexico chiles in stews, on burgers and in breakfast burritos.
Dungeness crab
Sweet crab from the cold Pacific, at its best from late fall into winter.
Ceviche
Raw white fish dressed in sharp lime, ají and onion; order it for lunch, as Peruvians do.
Lomo saltado
Beef, tomato and onion stir-fried in a wok, a Chinese-Peruvian staple served with both rice and fries.
Pisco sour
Grape brandy shaken with lime and egg white. Both countries claim it; we would not take sides.
Cordero magallánico
Lamb from the steppe, slow-roasted on an iron cross beside the fire.
Calafate
A dark berry from a thorny shrub. Local lore says eat one and you will come back.
Pão de queijo
Small chewy cheese breads made with cassava flour, on every breakfast table.
Places to add
Twillingate and the north shore
Headlands and lighthouses where icebergs often ground in early summer.
Gros Morne National Park
Freshwater fjords and the Tablelands, bare orange rock pushed up from deep inside the earth.
Zion and Bryce Canyon
Sheer canyon walls at Zion; fields of orange hoodoos at Bryce, best at sunrise.
Monument Valley
Sandstone buttes on Navajo land, toured with a Navajo guide.
Point Lobos
A small state reserve of cypress coves, sea otters and harbor seals.
Sacred Valley
Inca terraces and towns at Pisac, Moray and Ollantaytambo.
Perito Moreno Glacier
A wall of ice you watch calving from walkways near El Calafate.
The Argentine side of the falls
Catwalks right over the Devil's Throat; bring your passport.
Six places, from the Arctic current to the Andes
Pick a tab for each house's full file: the rooms, a three-day outline, where to eat, what to do, how to arrive, the weather month by month and the small practical things.
The six Americas hotels side by side
Americas: frequently asked
Can I fly to these hotels from Spain?
To the gateways, yes. Madrid has nonstop flights to Lima, Santiago, São Paulo and Buenos Aires, plus direct routes to several North American hubs. From there you need a domestic flight, a train or a drive.
Will the altitude bother me at Machu Picchu?
Cusco is around 3,400 m, so many people feel it there. Machu Picchu and Aguas Calientes are much lower. Spending your first nights in the Sacred Valley, drinking water and going slowly helps; ask your doctor if you have concerns.
Which side of Iguaçu is better?
Both. Brazil gives the wide panorama and is where das Cataratas sits; Argentina gets you right over the falls on long catwalks. Allow a day for each.
Do I need to book Machu Picchu tickets in advance?
Yes, well ahead in the dry season. Tickets are for a set entry time and circuit, and train seats sell out too. Hotels can help with both.
Is Post Ranch Inn suitable for families?
No. It is an adults-only retreat. For a family trip in the region, a road trip along the coast with other bases works better.
When is iceberg season on Fogo Island?
Roughly May to early July, but it changes every year. Online iceberg maps for Newfoundland show what is drifting south in real time.
What entry documents do I need?
Flying into Canada, Spanish and most other EU passport holders apply online for an eTA; for the US, the equivalent is the ESTA. Chile, Brazil and Peru do not require a tourist visa for Spanish passport holders. Rules change, so confirm on official government sites.