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Europe: capitals,
coasts and snow.

Twelve houses beyond the Iberian Peninsula: palace hotels in London, Paris, Rome and Vienna, a Perthshire estate, a Riviera villa, a vineyard hamlet near Bordeaux, a stone house in the Luberon, two Alpine landmarks, a palazzo above the Amalfi Coast and cliffside suites on Santorini. Below we cover timing, trains and flights, the food, local manners and the day trips we would add.

Illustration: Evening light over the sea below Ravello
Evening light over the sea below Ravello · Original illustration
Countries
United Kingdom, France, Italy, Austria, Switzerland, Greece
Currencies
Euro · pound sterling in the UK · Swiss franc in Switzerland
Languages
English, French, Italian, German, Romansh, Greek
Time zones
UK UTC+0 · Greece UTC+2 · the rest UTC+1 · all an hour ahead in summer
Power
230V everywhere · plug G in the UK, J in Switzerland, C, E, F or L elsewhere
Best months
Cities and coasts: May, June, September · Alps: January to March
Between hotels
Eurostar and TGV trains, Swiss and Italian rail, flights of one to three hours
Entry
Schengen rules apply everywhere except the UK, which needs its own ETA for many visitors
Overview

Twelve ways to stay in Europe

From Madrid or Barcelona, most of the rest of Europe is a short flight away, and its great hotels come in very different shapes. Four of ours are city institutions from the late 19th century: Claridge's in Mayfair, the Ritz on the Place Vendôme, the Sacher across from the Vienna State Opera, and the Hassler at the top of the Spanish Steps.

Two are about the mountains. Badrutt's Palace has stood over the lake at St. Moritz since 1896, and Cheval Blanc Courchevel opens each winter at the foot of the pistes in Courchevel 1850. Gleneagles, opened by a railway company in 1924, is the Scottish version of a country escape, with golf, dogs, horses and long walks.

The rest follow the sun and the vine. Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc keeps its pool in the rocks of the Cap d'Antibes. Les Sources de Caudalie sits among the vines of a Bordeaux château, Airelles Gordes is built into the walls of a Luberon hill village, Belmond Hotel Caruso occupies a medieval palazzo in Ravello, and Katikies hangs its terraces on the caldera at Oia.

Good for: travelers who like museums by day and long dinners at night, couples combining a city with the sea, wine lovers, golfers and skiers who want an old-fashioned grand hotel at the end of the day.

Seasons

When to go

Late spring

May and June are the sweet spot for almost everything on this list. London's parks and Paris's gardens are green, Rome is warm but not yet scorching, Provence smells of broom and early lavender, and the sea around Ravello, Antibes and Santorini is warming up. Seasonal hotels on the coast have reopened, usually in April or May.

High summer

July and August are long-evening months and peak season on every coast. Santorini and the Amalfi Coast are crowded, Rome is hot, and Paris empties out in August as residents leave on holiday. The Luberon lavender is at its most purple from late June to mid-July. In the Engadine, Badrutt's runs a summer season of hiking, sailing and mountain air.

Autumn

September is our favorite month to combine a city with a coast: warm water, thinner crowds and the grape harvest at Caudalie. October suits Rome, Vienna and London; most seaside hotels close between October and spring.

Winter

The season for snow and lit-up cities. Cheval Blanc Courchevel and Badrutt's Palace open for the ski season, roughly December to March or April. Vienna's ball season peaks in January and February, and London and Paris dress up for Christmas. Gleneagles is open all year and dramatic in frost.

Logistics

Getting around

Rail does most of the work in the north. The Eurostar connects London and Paris center to center, and French TGVs then fan out to Bordeaux and Avignon. Swiss trains climb to St. Moritz on one of Europe's prettiest lines, and Italy's Frecciarossa and Italo trains connect Rome with Naples in a little over an hour.

Fly when the map gets bigger: to Vienna, to Nice for the Riviera, to Naples for Ravello, and to Santorini, either direct in season or via Athens. For Courchevel, Geneva is the usual gateway, with a road transfer of about two and a half hours that can grow on busy winter Saturdays.

Rent a car only for Provence. On the Amalfi Coast hire a driver, in the Alps let the hotel arrange transfers, and in the cities walk.

LegHowTimeWorth knowing
London to ParisEurostar≈ 2h 20mArrive at Gare du Nord; allow time for border checks
London to GleneaglesTrain≈ 5h 30mVia Edinburgh, or fly to Edinburgh and drive about 1h
Paris to BordeauxTGV≈ 2h 10mCaudalie is about 25 minutes south of the city by car
Paris to AvignonTGV≈ 2h 40mThen about 45 minutes by car to Gordes
Nice airport to Cap d'AntibesCar≈ 30mLonger in July and August
Geneva to CourchevelCar≈ 2h 30mOr a helicopter transfer in good weather
Zurich to St. MoritzTrain≈ 3h 20mChange at Chur for the Albula line
Rome to NaplesFrecciarossa or Italo≈ 1h 10mThen about 1h 30m by car to Ravello
Athens to SantoriniFlight or ferry≈ 45m / 5–8hDirect flights from many European cities in season
Itinerary

A twelve-night route

  1. 1

    Three nights · Claridge's, London

    Arrive Heathrow · Elizabeth line or car to Mayfair

    The National Gallery, a walk across Hyde Park, a show in the West End and tea in the Foyer.

  2. 2

    Two nights · The Ritz, Paris

    Eurostar · about 2h 20m

    The Musée d'Orsay, the Palais-Royal gardens, the covered passages and a drink at the Bar Hemingway.

  3. 3

    Two nights · Airelles Gordes, Provence

    TGV to Avignon · about 2h 40m, then 45 min by car

    Hill villages, the Sénanque abbey and a Provençal market morning.

  4. 4

    Two nights · Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Cap d'Antibes

    Car · about 2h 30m

    Swims from the rocks, the Picasso Museum in Antibes and an evening in Old Nice.

  5. 5

    Three nights · Belmond Hotel Caruso, Ravello

    Fly Nice to Naples · about 1h 30m, then 1h 30m by car

    The belvedere at Villa Cimbrone, a boat to Positano and long evenings on the terrace. Your flight home leaves from Naples.

Seasonal swaps

In winter, trade the coast for the snow: two nights at the Sacher for Vienna's coffee houses and opera, then four at Badrutt's Palace or Cheval Blanc Courchevel. In late summer, swap Ravello for Santorini and Katikies, and add Les Sources de Caudalie between Paris and Provence for the harvest.

Etiquette

Customs and etiquette

  • Say hello first: a "bonjour" when you walk into a French shop matters more than anything you say afterward. Viennese shopkeepers will usually answer with "Grüß Gott."
  • Dinner times: the farther south you are, the later the table. Londoners book for seven, Parisians and Viennese for around eight, and on the Amalfi Coast or Santorini nobody hurries before nine.
  • Service charges: French bills include service, so just round up. Italian menus may add a coperto per person. In London many restaurants add 12.5% automatically, so check before tipping twice. In Austria and Switzerland, add about 5 to 10 percent.
  • Coffee: in Italy, cappuccino is a morning drink, and standing at the bar costs less than sitting down. In Vienna, one coffee buys you the table for as long as you like.
  • Churches: shoulders and knees covered in Rome and on the Amalfi Coast; some churches turn people away at the door.
  • Dress codes: several of these hotels still expect smart dress in the evening, especially in the Alps and on the Riviera. Pack one jacket.
  • Escalators: in London, stand on the right and walk on the left.
Table

What to eat

Scotland

Cullen skink

Smoked haddock, potato and onion simmered in milk, a soup for cold days in Perthshire.

United Kingdom

Afternoon tea

Finger sandwiches, warm scones with clotted cream and jam, then small cakes.

France · Paris

Steak frites

Bistro steak with a pile of thin fries, best with a glass of red.

France · Bordeaux

Canelés

Small fluted cakes with a dark caramelized crust and a soft vanilla center.

France · Provence

Tian provençal

Layers of tomato, zucchini and eggplant baked with olive oil and thyme.

France · Savoie

Tartiflette

Potatoes, bacon and onion baked under melted Reblochon cheese.

Switzerland · Engadine

Engadiner Nusstorte

A walnut and caramel tart in buttery pastry that keeps for weeks.

Austria

Kaiserschmarrn

A torn, caramelized pancake with plum compote.

Italy · Rome

Carciofi alla giudia

Whole artichokes fried until crisp, a dish of Rome's Jewish quarter.

Italy · Amalfi

Lemons, in everything

Sfusato lemons in pasta, in cakes and, after dinner, in a cold glass of limoncello.

Greece · Santorini

Tomatokeftedes

Fritters made with Santorini's small, intense cherry tomatoes and mint.

Beyond the hotels

Day trips worth adding

From Gleneagles · about 1h

Edinburgh

The castle, the Old Town closes and the galleries of the New Town.

From Paris · about 40 min

Versailles

The palace, the Hall of Mirrors and gardens big enough for a whole day.

From Bordeaux · about 45 min

Saint-Émilion

A UNESCO-listed wine village built over limestone quarries and cellars.

From Gordes · 10 to 15 min

Roussillon and Sénanque

Ochre cliffs in shades of red, and a Cistercian abbey in a lavender valley.

From Cap d'Antibes · about 30 min

Saint-Paul-de-Vence

A walled hill village and the Fondation Maeght's modern art collection.

From St. Moritz

Bernina line

A UNESCO-listed railway over the Bernina Pass to Tirano in Italy.

From Courchevel · about 1h 45m

Annecy

Canals, an old town and a clear Alpine lake for a rest day off skis.

From Rome · about 45 min

Tivoli

Hadrian's Villa and the fountains of the Villa d'Este.

From Ravello · about 1h each

Pompeii and Paestum

The Roman town under Vesuvius, and three Greek temples near the sea.

On Santorini

Akrotiri

A Bronze Age town preserved under volcanic ash, its streets now under a roof.

The Hotels

Twelve European houses

Pick a tab for each house's full file: the rooms, a three-day outline, where to eat, what to do, how to arrive, the weather month by month and the small practical things.

Side by side

The European hotels side by side

Questions

Europe: frequently asked

Which of these hotels are seasonal?

Cheval Blanc Courchevel opens only for the winter ski season. Badrutt's Palace has a winter and a summer season. Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Belmond Hotel Caruso and Katikies close for the colder months, roughly from late autumn to spring. The city hotels and Gleneagles are open all year. Always check exact dates.

Do I need a visa for the UK and the Schengen countries?

They are separate systems. France, Italy, Austria, Switzerland and Greece follow Schengen rules, and the EU is rolling out new digital border checks. The UK asks many visitors for an Electronic Travel Authorisation before departure. Check the official rules for your passport.

Can I do this trip without flying?

Mostly. London, Paris, Bordeaux, Avignon, Nice, Rome, Naples, Vienna and the Swiss Alps are all linked by rail. Santorini is the exception: it is a long ferry ride from Athens.

When is lavender season in Provence?

Usually from late June to mid-July, varying with the weather and altitude. Fields around Sénanque near Gordes are among the first visitors look for.

Which hotel suits families?

Gleneagles, with its open space and long list of outdoor activities, is the easiest with children of any age, and the big city hotels welcome families too. Cliffside suites with steps and plunge pools on Santorini are less practical with toddlers.

Should I book trains in advance?

Yes for Eurostar, TGV and Italian high-speed trains, whose cheapest fares disappear first. Swiss trains have fixed prices, so you can buy closer to the day.

Keep exploring

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