Ryokan etiquette, step by step

From the shoe line at the door to the last bowl of rice at breakfast: a calm guide to staying in a Japanese inn.
Arrival
Check-in at a ryokan is usually mid-afternoon, and it is worth arriving on time: many inns serve green tea and a seasonal sweet while they explain the house routine, including meal times and bath hours. At the entrance, step out of your shoes before the raised floor and into the slippers provided.
Slippers and tatami
- Slippers are for corridors. Leave them outside the door before stepping onto the tatami mats in your room.
- Separate slippers are often kept by the toilet; use them only there.
- Do not drag luggage across tatami; carry it or leave it in the entrance area.
Yukata
You will find a cotton robe, the yukata, in your room, sometimes with a jacket for cooler months. Wrap the left side over the right; right over left is reserved for dressing the dead. Wearing your yukata to dinner, the baths and around the inn is perfectly normal.
The bath
- Wash and rinse fully at the seated shower stations before entering the water.
- Do not wear a swimsuit, and keep your small towel out of the bath; many people rest it on their head.
- Tie up long hair and keep the water clean.
- Some shared baths restrict visible tattoos. If this matters, ask in advance or choose a room with a private bath.
Meals and bedtime
Dinner is often a multi-course kaiseki meal served at a set time, either in your room or in a private dining space. Tell the inn about allergies and dietary needs when you book, as menus are planned in advance. While you eat, staff may lay out futons in your room. Breakfast is early and usually Japanese-style.
Tipping and check-out
Tipping is not expected in Japan. Check-out is often around mid-morning, so ask about times on arrival, and leave the room tidy, with the yukata folded.